The 15th August is Ferragosto, a national holiday in Italy when Italians go on holiday themselves . So if you are planning to visit some of these places please contact them in advance where possible, to double check they are open and are taking reservations where appropriate.
Monteriggioni represents one of the most important walled castles in the territory. It has incredibly preserved an intact structure as if time had never passed on the hill from which it elegantly dominates the surrounding landscape. It is nestled in the province of Siena, between this beautiful city and Colle Val d’Elsa. Its perfect circular perimeter makes one suppose it to be an artficial construction while in actuality it was created by just following the curves in the natural ground. The castle was built by the Sienese between 1213 and 1219 for defensive purposes: its strategic location atop a hill overlooking the Cassia Road allowed the castle to control the cities of the Val d’Elsa and Staggia and be on the lookout for any armies approaching Siena.
The intact fortified wall presents 14 towers along which the guards used to walk and patrol the walls and 2 gates, one called the Franca or Romea Gate which faces Rome and the other known as the Florentine Gate since it heads toward Florence. The current structure of the village is essentially the original one, the only changes it went through date back to the 16th century when the towers were lowered and some earth accumulated at the base of the walls and another dating back to 1921 when 3 of the 14 towers were reduced to the level of the walls.
The reputation and prestige of this particular castle has a very consolidated notoriety because Monteriggioni was cited by the “Supreme Poet” Dante Alighieri in his most famous work, The Divine Comedy:
"As with circling round
Of turrets, Monteriggioni crowns his walls;
E’en thus the shore, encompassing the abyss,
Was turreted with giants, half their length
Uprearing, horrible, whom Jove from heaven
Yet threatens, when his muttering thunder rolls."
- Dante Alighieri, Hell, canto XXXI, lines 40-45
PIEVE DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA IN MONTERIGGIONI
The church, fronting the main square, is the building that best preserves the borgo’s medieval features. Built in the 13th century, it consists of a single interior space with a rectangular termination. The very elegant facade displays a fine doorway with a stone arch, with a round window (roundel) above. The interior, renovated in modern times, has plastered walls and domed vaults. As well as a bell dating to 1299, the Church also houses a 17th century painting of the Madonna and Rosary, which the town celebrates every year in October.
Siena is one of the most popular and visited places in Tuscany, a place extremely rich in history and art and with strong local traditions tied to its 17 districts (called “contrade”) and to the famous PALIO, the biggest annual event that takes place twice each summer in the city (see below).
The main attractions of the city are located between Piazza del Campo and the Cathedral, so you’ll likely spend most of your time here anyway!
PIAZZA DEL CAMPO is truly unique with its shell shape, its bricks pavement and for all the buildings facing on it. Standing at the center of the square, you can almost feel wrapped up in a warm embrace. Piazza del Campo hosts, twice a year (on July 2nd and August 16th), the famous Palio di Siena, the most anticipated, exciting event by all the citizens in Siena. Here you can find official information about Palio: https://www.comune.siena.it/node/135
Among the buildings overlooking Piazza del Campo, you will see and should visit the Palazzo Comunale (or Palazzo Pubblico, which is the city's Town Hall) and the Torre del Mangia.
The Torre del Mangia, with its height of 87 meters, offers one of the most beautiful views of the city. The climb can be a bit tiring: there are over 400 steps, a bit steep and narrow, to climb but the 360° view that awaits you on the top of the tower is spectacular and worth the "effort" you go through to reach the top.
The Duomo in Siena, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is one of the most outstanding examples of Romanesque-Gothic church in Italy. Imposing, almost dazzling for the extensive use of the white marble, the Duomo fascinates even from the outside. Entering, you will not be disappointed: Cathedral is enriched with works signed by famous artists the likes of Donatello, Nicola Pisano, Michelangelo and Pinturicchio. The interior, like the exterior, is decorated with white and dark green (almost black) marble, a choice made to reflect the colors of the city of Siena.
The Piccolomini Library, dedicated to Pope Pius II, is striking for the richness of its frescoes painted by Pinturicchio and his pupils, including Raphael Sanzio in the early 1500s. Inside the Library, you can admire truly extraordinary frescoes on the walls, where you can see some scenes of the life of Pope Pius II, but also on the ceiling, shining for the abundant use of gold.
The Baptistery is dedicated to San Giovanni (St. John) and was built in 1300 when it was decided to enlarge the Duomo. The Baptistery, with entry from Piazza San Giovanni, is easily recognizable for its incomplete marble facade. The interior of the Baptistery is beautifully decorated with a cycle of frescoes by some Sienese artists of the Renaissance. The most precious masterpiece preserved inside the Baptistery is without a doubt the beautiful baptismal font created by some of the greatest sculptors of the Renaissance: Jacopo della Quercia, Lorenzo Ghibertiand Donatello.
The Museo dell'Opera del Duomo is one of the oldest private museums in Italy and is located on the south side of the Cathedral, in an area that should have been an extension of the church on the basis of the project of the "New Cathedral", which was never completed. Here, you can admire the original statues from the facade of the Cathedral, including those made by Giovanni Pisano, the window of the apse by Duccio da Buoninsegna and one of the greatest masterpieces of the early Fourteenth century by Buoninsegna: the altarpiece of the Majesty.
The Palio is the world's oldest horse race with riders representing various districts in the area and has even appeared at the beginning of the Bond movie, Quantum of Solace. It happens twice each year, 2nd July and 16th August, the day of the wedding. However, they do carry out trials to test the horses and the tracks the three days before the Palio. It is possible to attend the Palio for free from inside the Piazza del Campo, which must be entered before the entrances are closed. and it can get very crowded.
More comfortably, but for a fee, you can watch sitting on the boxes surrounding the square or looking out the windows or balconies of the buildings. Since there is no centralized ticket office, it is necessary to contact the managers of the individual boxes (palcaioli) directly or the owners of the apartments overlooking the Piazza (which can be very expensive).
The trials in the days prior to the Palio happen in the mornings and the evenings due tot the hot weather.
PALIO
MORNING TRIALS 13th, 14, 15th AUGUST
8.20 am - advance notice
8.40 am - Track clearing begins
9.00 am - Horses exit from the Cortile del Podestà
AFTERNOON PRACTICES 13th, 14, 15th AUGUST
18.15 - notice
18.45 - Start clearing the track
19.15 - Horses exit from the Cortile del Podestà
PALIO OF 16 AUGUST
at 2.50 pm - first notice
at 3.20 pm - second notice
at 4.10 pm - Start of clearing of the track
at 4.45 pm - Parade of the Carabinieri squad on horseback
at 4.50 pm - Entrance to the Historical Procession in the "Campo"
at 7.00 pm - Exit of the horses from the Cortile del Podestà
HISTORY OF THE PALIO
A horse-race, which for centuries has been breathing life into the city. The origins of the Palio can be found somewhere in the dark ages, together with the earliest testimonies of horse-races in the city. In the mid- 1500s, the festivities begin to gradually shift from the city streets to Piazza del Campo, and at the same time the Contradas began to form into the communities that we recognise today. For centuries the prize for winning the Palio remained the Pallium: a precious cloth for liturgical furnishings, which was displayed on the City cart during the pageant.
It wasn’t until the 17th century that the Palio di Siena became what it is today, when Piazza del Campo became the official location of the race. The first Palio with horses took place in 1644 and since 1656 the Palio alla tonda (round the square) has been held on a regular basis. The spiritual nature of the Palio di Siena is in fact associated with this new structure, and the race was dedicated to Our Lady of Provenzano, as well as to Our Lady of the Assumption.
The definitive regulations for the Palio di Siena date back to the Age of Enlightenment. Since then, and still today, each of the 17 Contradas in the city constitutes a small State, governed by a Governing body headed by a Prior and guided during the Palio by a Captain.
In addition to its territory, each Contrada has a Church, with a museum housing centuries of heritage: memorabilia, victory banners, costumes from the Historical Pageants of past Palios, flags, an archive and much more.
Today the Palio di Siena takes place on July 2nd, in honor of Our Lady of Provenzano, and on August 16th, in honor of Our Lady of the Assumption. But the entire city is already fully immersed in preparations for the big day three days beforehand. As a matter of fact the horse trials and allocation of the horses takes place 3 days before the Palio. There are 6 horse trials (once in the morning and once in the afternoon) that allow the jockey to get to know the horse, and vice versa. These horse trials are an important part of the Palio for the Sieneses, as well as fascinating for visitors in the city for the historic event.
San Gimignano, a small walled village about halfway between Florence and Siena, is famous for its fascinating medieval architecture and towers that rise above of all the other buildings offering an impressive view of the city from the surrounding valley. At the height of its glory, San Gimignano's patrician families had built around 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 have survived, San Gimignano still retains its feudal atmosphere and appearance. Recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990, San Gimignano offers visitors the chance to step back in time while enjoying its local products including saffron and its white wine, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Chianti is one of the most beautiful hilly areas in Tuscany and maybe in Italy. Renowned all around the world for its Chianti wine production, this region stretches in between Florence and Siena. The landscape is characterized by vineyards and olive groves, fortresses, parish churches, and castles dominating the splendid surroundings.
Florence is linked to Chianti by Strada Regionale 222, (highway), called Via Chiantigiana, that crosses this area in Tuscany. The first town you meet is Strada in Chianti, where there is a wonderful view of the surroundings.
Going on you arrive in Greve in Chianti, that can be considered Chianti's gates. Etruscans lived here, where the great explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano was born, as celebrated by the big statue in the main square. Piazza Matteotti with its particular shape and restaurants and shops is the main attraction. The Church of Santa Croce displays important artworks by Florentine artists such as Andrea Della Robbia and deserve being visited. If you are a wine lover don't miss the Wine Museum that offers over 100 types of wine for tasting.
A quick diversion from the Chiantigiana Road, you arrive to Montefioralle, an ancient medieval castle. This small fortress is one of the oldest towns in Chianti and has remained unchanged for centuries. A visit the12th century Church of Santo Stefano, displaying several artworks, is definitely worth a visit.
Back on the main road you find Panzano in Chianti. It became famous over the last few years for the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, a butcher where Florentine steak is cut performing Dante's Divine Comedy. Located on top of a hill it offers a stunning panorama. In the old centre you can see traces of its ancient fortress.
Just outside Panzano stands the charming 12th century Parish Church of San Leolino that holds precious sacred artworks.
Continuing along Via Chiantigiana you find Castellina in Chianti, that lives on the border between Florentine and Senese Chianti. It has Etruscan roots and always played an important role in the fights between Florence and Siena. The majestic Fortress and the massive walls demonstrates this glorious past. Don't miss Via delle Volte, where you can admire a spectacular panorama, and the Archeological Museum of Senese Chianti.
Going back towards Florence, follow directions to Poggibonsi, taking the superstrada Firenze-Siena and exit to Barberino Val D'Elsa. This charming fortified town preserve its original medieval center with big walls and tower-houses.
Another nice detour can be stopping at the Chapel of San Michele in Semifonte near Petrognano. The chapel is also called the Duomo of Val D'Elsa (1567) and symbolizes the glorious and sad past of Semifonte, that was razed to the ground by Florence around 1200AD.
Back on the main road SR222 you arrive in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, where stands the Church of Santa Lucia al Borghetto, a rare example of Gothic architecture in the region. Outside the center lies the particular Parish Church of San Piero in Bossolothat which hosts the Museum of Sacred Art.
Continuing towards Florence you arrive in San Casciano Val di Pesa, the last town of Chianti, that has a delightful center with shops and restaurants. Few kilometers further there is the Albergaccio of Sant'Andrea in Percussina, today a famous wine producer, where Niccolò Machiavelli lived.
CANTINE ANTINORI
The winery opened on 25 October, 2012, and is the Antinori family’s way of paying tribute to the Chianti Classico area, an assertion of the longstanding bond between Antinori and their homeland. The cellar was designed for production reasons and to give the wider wine-loving public the opportunity to experience the family’s winemaking philosophy first-hand: to see how wine is made, from the vine to the bottle, through vinification and refinement. Seven years in the making, the innovative architecture of the cellar is the work of Archea Associati, with product engineering by Hydea. The central focus of the building is a profound relationship with the land, with low environmental impact and high energy saving. Upon first glance, it resembles a big hill with two cracks cut into the vine-growing ground. Brick red in colour, like the soil, the cellar was built using natural materials, such as terracotta, wood, weathering steel (corten) and glass. It was designed to be welcoming to visitors and to display winemaking in all its stages, as well as the history of the Antinori family, art and the area’s food and wine culture.
Since the inception of the cellar project, the fundamental feature was its “invisibility.” The construction had to take place at one and in harmony with the surrounding landscape, which is why the decision was made to plant a vineyard that would cover the entire building. The cellar only overlooks the countryside via a terrace that is surrounded by the vineyard, where the main grape variety is Sangiovese as well as others historically cultivated in the Chianti Classico area, such as Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Malvasia nera, Mammolo and a small quantity of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc.
Via Cassia per Siena, 133 Loc. Bargino, San Casciano Val di Pesa
Phone: 055 2359700
E-mail:visite@antinorichianticlassico.it
Website: http://www.antinorichianticlassico.it
CANTINA IL BORRO
A cellar with an important history, Il Borro is located in the heart of the Valdarno.
The cellar of Il Borro, owned by the Ferragamo family, designed by architect Elio Lazzerini, is a brick building, partly covered in plaster, with a traditional layout to be at one with the pre-existing estate structures: the medieval village, farmhouses, main villa and, in particular, the old eighteenth-century cellar.
The new 1,100m2 cellar connects the vat room, the bottling and storage areas, and the exhibition space for temporary exhibitions with the old cellar along a long vaulted corridor, using the old, pre-existing roof. This 300-meter-longtunnel drops down to a depth of 8 meters under the ground to reach the historic spaces built in the past beneath the main villa. In addition to offering a beautiful walkway to visitors, it also provides the perfect temperature for storing the wine in a 100% natural way.
Località Borro 1, San Giustino Val d'Arno, Loro Ciuffenna
Phone: 055 977053
E-mail:ilborro@ilborro.it
Website: http://www.ilborrowines.it
TENUTA ARGENTIERA
Situated along the lovely Etruscan Coast, amid natural springs and silver mines, Tenuta Argentiera produces the finest DOC Bolgheri wine.
About 100km from Florence, along the beautiful Etruscan Coast, stands Tenuta Argentiera, a wine producer making DOC Bolgheri. Once part of the old Tenuta di Donoratico, belonging to the Florentine Serristori family, the winery lies on a plateau where there were natural springs and silver mines in the past. Hence the name of the company, now owned by brothers Corrado and Marcello Fratini. Tenuta Argentiera, with its 500 hectares of land, has always paid particular attention to its spectacular setting, making for fine reds. The section of the Tuscan coast that runs from Livorno to Grosseto is dotted with sighting towers built by the Medici family to protect the land from sea attacks. These buildings provided the inspiration for the project that gave rise to the Tenuta Argentiera winery in Donoratico.
Constructed by Studio Bernardo Tori in Florence, the plans observe local architectural styles while becoming part of the perfection of the surrounding landscape, becoming at one with the hills and sea. Built entirely in recovered materials so as not to contrast too greatly with the pre-existing buildings, the cellar blends beauty and harmony of form with modern energy-saving techniques. The thick sloping walls ensure natural heat regulation of the spaces and all of the winemaking takes place by harnessing gravity. The underground part of the cellar is dedicated to ageing rooms, with the beautiful barrique cellar with a vaulted ceiling that contains 1,200 barriques.
Località I Pianali, via Vecchia Aurelia 412/A, Donoratico
Phone: 0565 773176
E-mail:info@argentiera.eu
Website: http://www.argentiera.eu
CANTINA DI MONTALCINO
The winery is situated near Montalcino, about 35km from Siena, right in front of the knoll of the little town, nestled among meadows, olive trees and the beautiful Val di Cava vineyards, along the extraordinary route of the vintage cycling race, L’Eroica. For more than 40 years, Cantina di Montalcino has been the only winemaking cooperative in the area, with approximately 100 small-scale agricultural firms as members, 160 hectares of vineyards, mostly Sangiovese, the local grape variety par excellence.
The company currently underwent some restructuring with an important architectural project that is modern yet at one with the Ilcinesi hills: the underlying idea is to make wine while respecting the environment. The distinctive roof follows the natural movement of the hills. Steel and wood, nature and technology, modernity and tradition merge with the Brunello wine, a happy marriage that is worth seeing and tasting. A wooden bridge crosses the entirety of the winemaking floor, while, underground, the wine rests and refines in oak casks and barriques far away from noise and lights. More than 50% of the winery is underground, according to tradition, to enable easier temperature control and energy saving. Wastewater is treated using aerobic purifiers and natural microbacteria. Spring water is heated and most of the electricity is produced independently by harnessing solar power. History, land, nature, technology, tradition and wine: synthesis at Cantina di Montalcino.
Località Val di Cava, Montalcino
Phone: 0577 848704
E-mail:info@cantinadimontalcino.it
Website: http://www.cantinadimontalcino.it
The province of Siena is the richest area of natural thermal waters in all Tuscany: here, you will be able to take care of your body as well as explore a stupendous territory, characterized by the gentle hills of the Valdorcia, in particular the Crete Senesi and the green mountain of Mount Amiata.
Close to Monteriggioni between Chianti and Val di Chiana, there’s Rapolano Terme, a little town surrounded by the marvellous Crete Senesi and well-known for the two thermal spas of San Giovanni and Antica Querciolaia, which offer innovative and modern wellness treatments, as well as the latest technologies for specific diseases.
Between the provinces of Siena and Grosseto, the natural thermal waters of Saturnia and Petriolo offer a variety of choices for enjoying total relax and curative wellness, from the free hot thermal pools amidst nature, to the luxurious and modern centers offering all kind of treatments.
Set in south of Siena is Bagno Vignoni and it is one of the oldest and most famous thermal locations of the region, well known for its Roman period pool situated in the center of the main square and surrounded by a landscape of rare beauty. The little hamlet is a short distance from San Quirico, Castiglione d’Orcia and Pienza, perfect destinations for a wine-and-food tour in the area.
Located at a short distance from Bagno Vignoni, there’s another thermal location that is worth a visit, Bagni San Filippo, offering two different types of thermal waters: sulfurous, gushing out from Acqua Bianca rocks, and wonderful waters of the White Whale pools, both in the outdoors.
Learn to cook traditional Italian dishes during a Tuscan cooking class . From homemade pastas to juicy cuts of meat, a professional chef can lead you through a combination of family-favorite recipes and time-tested dishes, culminating with a shared meal and excellent wine. Let us know if you're interested and we can try and book for the group.
LELLA COOKING SCHOOL by Lella Cesari Ciampoli
www.scuoladicucinadilella.net
Via Fontebranda 69 – 53100 Siena Italy, tel and fax + 39 0577 46609
Lella +39 338 868 2801 info@scuoladicucinadilella.net
This class is held in a professional kitchen in the heart of Siena and limited to a small group of 15 people or fewer for a more intimate experience. (4 hours)
BRUNELLO COOKING CLASS
www.brunellocookingclass.com
Castello Tricerchi, Località Altesi – 53024 Montalcino (SI), P.IVA 00848160529
RESERVATION: Tel.: +39 3481005879, Tel.: +39 3492804365
info@brunellocookingclass.com
Discover the fine food and wine of the Siena region with your own private guide on a full-day tour in Tuscany. Taste some of Tuscany’s great wine and cheese, take a cooking class, go to wine estates, and have a delicious lunch. Suitable for groups of up to eight people, this tour provides comfortable transportation in a Mercedes minivan with a professional driver. (4 hours)
CESARINE: PASTA & TIRAMISU CLASS AT A LOCAL'S HOME IN SIENA
Booking through website: https://cesarine.com/en/search/siena
Exact address of the local will be given after booking.
Small group of maximum 6-8 people in this hands-on cooking class of traditional Italian cuisine, with 2 pasta recipes and the must-have Italian dessert: tiramisù in its traditional recipe The class is followed by an Italian aperitivo and lunch or dinner of the dishes that will be made together! The variety of pasta can change according to the seasonality of the products. "We always use typical local products to guarantee an experience of flavors and tastes." The cooking class is interactive, guests actively participate in the preparation of the recipes. (3 hours)
(FYI: Patrizia has spoken languages of English, Italian, and Spanish, and Barbara has French, English, and Italian).